10 Jan 2007

Yesterday we had another adventure in Cochabamba. We had to be downtown, for a brief errand at the government office. Our driver thought it would be safe, as long as we were in and out in a few minutes. As usual, we were delayed by the local bureaucratic requirements to go to Table A, then to Table B, return to Table A, go to Desk C, do not pass Go, etc. we completed most of our business, however, we were not able to complete my motorcycle license. The good news is that my international driver’s license is good for another 5 months.

By the time we returned to the street, the streets were blocked by a march of “protesters”. An army of “Campesinos” were marching to the Central Plaza, in an attempt to force the pro democracy Prefect of Cochabamba to resign. In the distance we could hear the crack of tear gas grenades. A slight burning of the eyes and nose were all we experienced. We joined the parade and angled across the street towards our taxi. We received many glares – not too many 6 foot tall gringos there! – but safely made it across. As we got in the taxi, one man paused and gestured toward our taxi as he apparently considered smashing the windshield; he carried a wooden plank with several nails protruding. Pressure from the crowd behind pushed him on. Whew!! After a long wait, which allowed for us to closely observe the marchers, our driver negotiated for us to be able to back out of the danger zone and retreat down a side street.

The city folks just watched the march in puzzlement and dismay. They just did not know how to respond. They assume the police are there to deal with such matters. However, the police, who are under national government control, were providing escort to the marchers, blocking traffic and keeping the residents back.

Some observations, this is NOT a peaceful protest. While pinned in our taxi, we personally observed at far too close a range that the marchers were armed for an assault. Aside from the boards with nails, we saw men carrying baggies filled with black powder – which probably was old style gunpowder. Modern gun powder will not explode if lit, but the old fashioned powder makes a powerful explosive. Others were carrying baggies of gasoline, partnering with men carrying old tires. A rubber tire doused with gasoline makes a nasty fire that is difficult to extinguish- in South Africa it was also a tool of execution used by the followers of Winnie Mandela. In an article published yesterday, the Prefects of the pro-democracy departmentos (states) are advised to “carry their wills under their arms”.

Amazingly, there were some women in the march with babies!

We did not see anyone who appeared to be residents of the city. The marchers were brought in on buses from the countryside. According to a local resident, the country folk or “campesinos” were paid in cash or cigarettes and liquor. The funds reportedly come from Venezuela to the pro-communist MAS party, who are the force behind the drive to redefine Bolivia in the mold of Cuba.

It is hard not to too closely identify with the people of this endangered nation. With the benefit of history, it is all too easy to predict the future here. Still, it is an exciting place to be! I do think that history is better when it smells of musty books instead of cordite!