We were having a pleasant lunch at our favorite street side cafe. It has four things that make it my favorite:

1) It is on the most beautiful street in Cochabamba, “the Prado”. You’d think it was a street in Europe. The front is open, so you can enjoy the fresh air, and watch the people pass by. You also can be accosted by beggars, shoe shine boys and pushy street vendors, but that is part of the charm. And no, I didn’t buy the $10 “genuine Rolex”.

2) The prices are cheap. If you stick to basic sandwiches and stuff, it is less than McDonalds. You also can get more expensive exotic Japanese dishes, prepared by a Japanese chef.

3) The service is excellent. Friendly, smiling servers who enjoy chatting, even with my clumsy Spanish.

4) They get the food right, and take care of my miserable food allergies.

Back to today’s story. We were sitting at an inside table, because workers were replacing the front awning with a more durable but ugly aluminum structure. The construction noise was irritating, but we were enjoying conversation with a minimum of shouting (gestures and lip reading help!). We were at the railing next to the sidewalk, my back to the street.

Sparks were starting to fly into the restaurant from the worker’s welding torches. They were working above us, and the sparks were landing on the table to my left. The manager reprimanded the workers and they moved a bit farther to the street. As they moved, a box containing a few pounds of sharp, 8 inch metal spikes was dislodged and fell into the restaurant – on me!

The spikes were used to anchor the metal awning to the concrete facade of the building. Had the spikes descended vertically, I would have been impaled and you’d be reading about my memorial service. Instead they landed sideways across my neck and upper back. My wife assures my that my shout of pain and surprise was very manly – but I haven’t pressed her on that!

The workers gathered up their stuff and kept right on working, pretending nothing had happened, with furtive glances at us to see what we’d do. The servers and manager rushed over to a) see if I was all right, and b) if I’d make a fuss.

We determined that I was OK except for some scratches and bruises. A graphic reminder that we are immortal until God is finished with us, so be bold for Christ!

Now, you may be thinking that in the States, the resulting law suit and settlement would make me a millionaire. However, this is Cochabamba! The manager had a free soft drink sent over, and then presented me with the bill for our meal.

10 Jan 2007

Yesterday we had another adventure in Cochabamba. We had to be downtown, for a brief errand at the government office. Our driver thought it would be safe, as long as we were in and out in a few minutes. As usual, we were delayed by the local bureaucratic requirements to go to Table A, then to Table B, return to Table A, go to Desk C, do not pass Go, etc. we completed most of our business, however, we were not able to complete my motorcycle license. The good news is that my international driver’s license is good for another 5 months.

By the time we returned to the street, the streets were blocked by a march of “protesters”. An army of “Campesinos” were marching to the Central Plaza, in an attempt to force the pro democracy Prefect of Cochabamba to resign. In the distance we could hear the crack of tear gas grenades. A slight burning of the eyes and nose were all we experienced. We joined the parade and angled across the street towards our taxi. We received many glares – not too many 6 foot tall gringos there! – but safely made it across. As we got in the taxi, one man paused and gestured toward our taxi as he apparently considered smashing the windshield; he carried a wooden plank with several nails protruding. Pressure from the crowd behind pushed him on. Whew!! After a long wait, which allowed for us to closely observe the marchers, our driver negotiated for us to be able to back out of the danger zone and retreat down a side street.

The city folks just watched the march in puzzlement and dismay. They just did not know how to respond. They assume the police are there to deal with such matters. However, the police, who are under national government control, were providing escort to the marchers, blocking traffic and keeping the residents back.

Some observations, this is NOT a peaceful protest. While pinned in our taxi, we personally observed at far too close a range that the marchers were armed for an assault. Aside from the boards with nails, we saw men carrying baggies filled with black powder – which probably was old style gunpowder. Modern gun powder will not explode if lit, but the old fashioned powder makes a powerful explosive. Others were carrying baggies of gasoline, partnering with men carrying old tires. A rubber tire doused with gasoline makes a nasty fire that is difficult to extinguish- in South Africa it was also a tool of execution used by the followers of Winnie Mandela. In an article published yesterday, the Prefects of the pro-democracy departmentos (states) are advised to “carry their wills under their arms”.

Amazingly, there were some women in the march with babies!

We did not see anyone who appeared to be residents of the city. The marchers were brought in on buses from the countryside. According to a local resident, the country folk or “campesinos” were paid in cash or cigarettes and liquor. The funds reportedly come from Venezuela to the pro-communist MAS party, who are the force behind the drive to redefine Bolivia in the mold of Cuba.

It is hard not to too closely identify with the people of this endangered nation. With the benefit of history, it is all too easy to predict the future here. Still, it is an exciting place to be! I do think that history is better when it smells of musty books instead of cordite!

Violence in Cochabamba

Yesterday saw serious outbreaks of violence here in Cochabamba, Bolivia. The ruling party “Movement toward Socialism” (MAS) sponsored marches throughout the city that turned to riots. The main city plaza was assaulted with rocks and Molotov cocktails. The Prefect’s office was burned out, and several private vehicles were destroyed. One image that sticks in my mind was one ladies’ car being burned. Later she was interviewed standing next to the burned out hulk, sobbing that it was the only possession she owned. The rioters had callously draped their flag across the hulk as a trophy of their “victory”.

The issue is communism vs. democracy. The president and his MAS party want to establish a Cuban style dictatorship, following the precedent of his mentor, Hugo Chavez of Venezuela. The Prefect of Cochabamba supports autonomy of the departmentos (states), along with 4 other departamentos – even through succession if necessary. Representing more than half of the geographic portion of Bolivia, and over 80% of the wealth (mineral resources, natural gas and oil), if these departments do form their own nation, what is left of Bolivia will have little to work with.

The pro-democracy groups are holding polite marches and protests, the communistic forces are staging riots, violence and attacking those who disagree with them. Frankly, by the time the pro-democracy groups realize they are in a real fight, the communists will probably have a stranglehold on the country. The wealthy are moving their assets to other nations, and applying for visas elsewhere.

Thomas (my son) and I were downtown, eating lunch 6 blocks away as the assault on the Prefect’s office was winding down. We then proceeded through the area on various errands. We were only inconvenienced one time, as our taxi had to detour around an overturned dumpster. On TV last night I saw that same street corner as a camera filmed a confrontation between five police and about 20 “protesters” – the protesters were throwing large softball sized rocks, the police were simply using their shields and blocking the advance.

In spite of the large fires on the main city plaza, with government offices in flames along with several vehicles, and the protesters attacking with rocks and Molotov cocktails, the police did not open fire; they only used tear gas, and not on a great scale. In spite of this, the national minister (MAS party) fired the police chief for the use of the gas. MAS wants the Prefect (mayor) of Cochabamba out of the way. The violence organized by MAS was intended to drive him out. The police are between a rock and a hard place, as they report to both the local AND national governments, and those two forces oppose each other.

Note that the police did have a riot vehicle equipped with a water cannon on the scene. They were using it to put out the fire in the government office, until rioters attempted to interfere with them, the cannon was then briefly turned on the attackers.

Thomas and I were fine, though we did get a taste of diluted tear gas – not bad, clears the sinuses! Most of the city was business as usual by 3:00 pm. In an economy where you eat on what you make that day, business goes on!

I’ve written elsewhere about my concern that the northern half of South America is going to fall into the cycle of domino revolutions that have devastated Africa for 40 years. The Southern nations, Chile and Argentina have formed a defense pact ala NATO to resist any migration of violence from the North. No one denies that the governments since 1980 have failed to allow the benefit of “trickle down economics” to reach the poor. Free Trade Markets have not been good for the nations who did not have industry and distribution networks to compete. However, moving to Communism and dictatorship will not relieve their plight.

We’ll stay at home today.

There is a nationwide “paro”, or work stoppage, for all commercial transportation. No taxis or buses will run. The gas stations are probably blockaded as well, to discourage personal vehicles from being on the road. You can use your personal vehicle, though there is risk being drug from your car and beaten senseless, so wise folks only go out for emergencies. We, of course, stocked up at the grocery store yesterday, along with about 200 other Bolivians at I.C. Norte (our preferred grocery store). No trash services or water delivery will take place today, but we have three spare 5 gallon-bottles of water in the pantry. The paro is scheduled for Thursday and Friday, though if the workers demands are not met, it could continue into next week.

The miners are continuing their strike in the Potosí departamento (state). The miners are objecting because only government workers are allowed to work in some mines, while the other [non-affiliated] miners go without jobs. Violence has erupted in those areas and surrounding areas and several people have been killed or wounded. Dynamite is the weapon of choice. [It’s what they have at hand.]

The conflict between the capitalists in the Southeast departamentos and the federal socialist government continue. The primary issue is that the Constitutional Assembly, which is 55% socialist, is redefining itself and the Constitution of Bolivia, assuming absolute authority. The Departamento governments object, due to well-grounded fears that the resulting constitution will create a communist government along the lines of Cuba.

The Supreme Court has decided against the president, who says he doesn’t care what they say or what they want, stating the Court itself is corrupt and decadent. He will ignore the constitutional process determined by the Legislature, and hold a national referendum some time next year on his new constitution. On the television news from La Paz, there are scenes of protests, with placards that read “Coup”. The usual discussions of potential civil war are discussed, with neither side giving an inch. There are valid core differences between the sides, and the future of this region of South America is at stake.

Rumors fly that the President has invited Venezuelan troops into the country – though most doubt this to be true. He has, however, proposed joint bases with Venezuela along the border Bolivia shares with Paraguay. Since Venezuela is three countries away, the assumption is that this is a way to position troops to surround the potential separatist departamentos. A US think tank upgraded Bolivia’s war potential to “On the Brink”.

So, we’ll be staying home today. Cyn wanted to try out the new dish she learned… Pique Macho [Male Rivalry]. It’s a great meat dish made with Beef, Sausage, some veggies and a soy-papaya sauce that smells great! If you want the recipe, I’m sure she would share. She’s looking forward to sharing this recipe with our churches when we return for furlough.

Besides, It is a good time for communicating with our friends in the States, doing home projects, and of course, studying our Spanish.